Dog-friendly The Dark Peak

Joseph Holt food pub in the centre of Glossop, with accommodation upstairs and the sport on in the bar. The brewery lists it as dog friendly, which makes it the obvious town-centre stop before or after the Longdendale and Bleaklow walks. Whether dogs are allowed in the letting rooms is not stated, so ring ahead for a night.

Derbyshire's first community-owned pub, bought by 380 villagers in 2013, and still the village post office and cafe as well as the bar. Dog friendly is listed among its facilities, and the cafe side makes it a daytime option as much as an evening one. Large outdoor seating area and a car park behind, five minutes from Ladybower.

Sixteenth-century dining pub on the Edale road out of Hope, named for the packhorse trade that paid its rent in cheese. Dogs are allowed in the pub and the dining areas, which is rarer than it should be, but the inn states clearly that they cannot stay in the overnight rooms. Book a table at weekends; it fills with walkers off Win Hill.

Sixteenth-century coaching inn in the middle of Hathersage, smarter than the average walkers' pub but not precious about it. Well-behaved dogs are welcome in the bar, the lounge and the outdoor areas, with water bowls and treats provided; the bedrooms are dog-free. Charlotte Bronte stayed here, which is where Jane Eyre got its surnames.

Eighteenth-century village pub in Hayfield, the starting point for Kinder Reservoir and the Snake Path. Dogs are welcomed into the bar area, with treats and water bowls kept behind it, and the pub makes a point of being a dog-lovers' local. A sunny beer garden for after the reservoir loop.

Inn on the Sheffield road above the village, looking down the Hope Valley. Every one of the nine bedrooms takes dogs, at £20 a night for up to two, added to the booking under the pet charge; the bar is dog friendly too. The house rule is a lead no longer than two metres anywhere on site.

Cafe in the round cutlery factory at Leadmill Bridge, all glass and good design, with 48 of its 72 seats indoors. Well-behaved dogs on a lead are always welcome inside, but the cafe asks that they stay off the seats and that you leave water bowls out of it - the underfloor heating is the dog's spot. Sunday lunch here is worth the booking.

Four and a quarter miles and about two and a half hours for the best view-to-effort ratio in the Peak, looking straight down on Ladybower from a gritstone rim 260 metres above the valley. Start from the free roadside lay-bys on New Road above Bamford, which hold perhaps twenty cars in total and are full by nine on any fine day; parking on the verges beyond them causes real problems for residents. The edge is unfenced with a sheer drop in places and the moor behind is open access land where a fixed two-metre lead is required from 1 March to 31 July for the ground-nesting birds and at all times near the sheep, and there is no water on the top at all.

Seven and a half miles, 450 metres of ascent and a full five hours, because the top half is trackless peat where navigation matters more than fitness and mist is common. Start from the free roadside parking at the end of Shepley Street in Old Glossop, where the Doctor's Gate track begins; there is space for a dozen cars and nothing else nearby. This is open access moor with a fixed two-metre lead required from 1 March to 31 July for ground-nesting birds and at all times near sheep, the peat groughs are chest-deep and exhausting for a small dog, and although Shelf Brook and Crooked Clough give water the plateau pools are peat soup.

Ten miles and five hours on forest tracks and reservoir roads up the length of Derwent and Howden to the packhorse bridge at Slippery Stones, with barely 260 metres of climbing spread over the lot. Start at Fairholmes visitor centre, where the pay car park fills by mid-morning and the valley road above closes to cars at weekends and bank holidays, with a shuttle bus running instead. Severn Trent asks for dogs to be on a lead at all times here because of the wildlife, the shallow river above Slippery Stones is the one safe place for a swim as the reservoirs themselves are steep-sided and dangerous, and the cafe kiosk at Fairholmes has water and trail maps.

Five and a half miles there and back on the old Roman road up Shelf Brook, about three hours, on a stony track that climbs steadily to 400 metres without ever getting difficult. Start at the free roadside parking at the end of Shepley Street in Old Glossop, a dozen spaces on a dead-end lane; Glossop station is a mile and a quarter away for anyone on the train. The track is broad enough to keep a dog clear of bikes, Shelf Brook runs alongside for the first two miles with pools to swim in, and above the last wall this is open access moor where a two-metre fixed lead is required from 1 March to 31 July and near the sheep at any time.

Three and a half easy miles and about an hour and three quarters through riverside meadows to Leadmill Bridge and back by field paths under Hathersage Booths. Start from the Oddfellows Road car park in the village, pay-and-display and usually the easiest parking in the Hope Valley, with the station five minutes away. The Derwent here is broad, slow and shallow at the bridge and is the best swim in the valley for a dog that likes deep water, but the meadows are grazed by cattle for much of the year so a two-metre lead is needed near them, and there are half a dozen stone squeeze stiles.

Just under six miles and about three and a quarter hours, climbing 350 metres out of the Derwent valley to the boulder crown of Higger Tor and the Iron Age wall of Carl Wark. Park in the Oddfellows Road pay-and-display in Hathersage, which is cheap and rarely full, and the Fox House bus can shorten the return; the Burbage bridge lay-bys are the alternative if you want a shorter version. This is Eastern Moors land where dogs must be on a lead of no more than two metres on open access ground from 1 March to 31 July and at all times around the cattle that graze Burbage, the peat groughs on the tor are deep enough to swallow a small dog, and Burbage Brook is the reliable water.

Modern outdoors hotel on the A6187 between Hope and Bamford, built around wet kit, bikes and dogs rather than in spite of them. Dog-friendly rooms are a core part of the offer, with drying space and floors that survive a Kinder day. Bike hire on site and the Ladybower trails ten minutes up the road.

Edwardian hotel up a lane on the flank of Lose Hill, with a spa and a view straight down the valley. Dogs stay in designated dog-friendly rooms with ground-floor external access and wooden floors, at a £20 surcharge per dog, and are welcome in the grounds but not in the hotel's public areas. Request a dog room at the time of booking as there are only a couple.

Working farm campsite in the village with a cafe and farm shop attached, directly under Grindsbrook Clough. The farm describes itself as child and dog friendly, and the Kinder paths start a field away. Pitches rather than bedrooms, so plan for a tent or a van.

The Peak's highest ground, reached from Edale by Grindsbrook or Jacob's Ladder, and the moor where the 1932 mass trespass happened. Dogs are welcome across the National Trust land here, but this is open access moorland: a fixed lead no more than two metres long is a legal requirement from 1 March to 31 July to protect ground-nesting lapwing, curlew and golden plover, and at all times near sheep. Facilities are minimal, so carry water for the dog as the plateau has none you would want it drinking.

Three reservoirs, the Dambusters dam at Derwent and a network of surfaced tracks that suit wheels and old legs, from the quarter-mile walk to Ladybower's plugholes up to the ten-mile Slippery Stones circuit. Severn Trent, who own it, require dogs to be kept on a lead at all times because of the wildlife and stock. Note there is no full walking circuit of Ladybower itself - the A57 has no footway - so park at Heatherdene or Fairholmes and use the marked trails.