Our drawing of the route — the shape of the walk, not a navigation aid. Carry OS Explorer on the hill.
A mile and a bit there and back, climbing 130 metres from the little car park at Jubilee Bridge at the foot of Hardknott Pass to the walls of Mediobogdum, the Roman fort that sits on a shelf 250 metres above the Esk with the whole of Eskdale laid out west of it. The path is grass and stone and steep in places but short, and you can walk the full circuit of the fort walls, the headquarters building and the commandant's house before dropping back. There is no shelter and no water on the way up. It is grazed fell, with Herdwicks around the fort itself, and the National Trust asks for a short lead throughout Eskdale.
The refurbished cafe at Dalegarth for Boot, at the Eskdale end of the fifteen-inch gauge line, serving lunches, snacks and ice cream to walkers coming off Stanley Ghyll and the Esk path. Dogs are allowed on the lower floor but not upstairs, where Wakefield's afternoon tea room is, so the ground-floor seating and the platform are the places to sit. There are toilets and a large pay-and-display car park here, which makes it the practical starting point for most Eskdale walks. Water bowls are set out around the station.
Seven converted farm buildings around a yard at Boot, on a working farm beside the Whillan Beck, with the most detailed published dog policy anywhere in Eskdale. Six of the seven take dogs but the number varies by cottage: two large or three small at the Farmhouse, two at Wastwater, two at Scafell only if they sleep in crates, one large or two small at Hardknott, Wrynose and Stanley Ghyll, and one small dog at Whillan Beck. There is an enclosed shared paddock and a garden by the beck, though dogs are not allowed off the lead in the shared gardens. No dog under a year old is accepted at all.
A walkers inn at the entrance to Boot, with a bar known for its whisky shelf and the Eskdale Mill path over the bridge. Dogs are allowed in the bar and the snug only: they are not allowed in the bedrooms at all, which is the opposite of most Eskdale inns and worth knowing before you book.
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